It wasn’t even that long ago when makeup brands only had one or two foundation shades for darker skin tones. While more brands are expanding their shade ranges, and retailers are becoming more inclusive by making POC-owned brands more accessible to consumers, the beauty industry — especially, makeup — has notoriously lagged in diversity. And that lack of inclusivity has often trickled down into makeup artists’ kits, leaving Black models feeling uncomfortable backstage at fashion week. That’s why we asked professional makeup artist Alana Wright, whose clients include Nicole Richie and Yvonne Orji, on how to create an inclusive makeup kit, with products that suit all skin tones.
Her first tip starts with sunscreen: Make sure the formula doesn’t leave a white, cloudy cast on brown skin, as it can ruin makeup. Her go-to? Black Girl Sunscreen Moisturizing Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30.
As for foundation, a good rule of thumb is to buy a variety of coverages “You never know what the job may call for — it may call for really ‘real’ skin,” she notes. For ultimate coverage, she likes BLK/OPL True Color Skin Perfecting Stick Foundation SPF 15, while Fenty Beauty by Rihanna Ease Drop Blurring Skin Tint is what she reaches for to achieve a more natural-looking finish.
It’s equally essential to pick complexion products that cater to a variety of undertones, she says. “There’s a misconception that darker shades don’t have these nuanced undertones when they actually do.” When building out your kit, look for products that’ll suit red, gold, cool, and neutral undertones, Wright suggests.
A solid makeup kit also includes “crucial” items like concealer, setting powder, and blush, she says. For the latter, she’s partial to the cream variety due to the instant warmth it adds to skin (“It’s often that missing key ingredient,” she says). But she’s also a sucker for a good multitasking product, calling out Juvia’s Place The Berries — which is technically an eyeshadow palette — as an easy cheek product. Whatever you do, don’t worry about buying everything all at once. “Build your kit gradually,” she says.
Watch the video, above, to learn more about what goes into creating a makeup kit for all skin tones and why inclusivity has been an afterthought in the makeup industry for so long.
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