On TikTok, the hashtag #skincare has an enormous 138.2 billion views and counting, with experts, influencers and TikTokers sharing their routines, top tips and favourite products. Among all of that, you'll spot a handful of burgeoning skin-care movements.
We've seen slugging and 'laminated skin' for example, alongside a growth in refillable products in a bid to be more sustainable, not to mention the body care boom that shows no sign of slowing down. The word “skin barrier” should be eligible for the Merriam-Webster word of the year, in fact, and it would be of no surprise if the NuFace or LED masks are on many Christmas lists this year (they're that popular).
So what can you expect going into 2023? We tapped some of the skin-care industry’s biggest names for the skin-care trends that are going to be on everyone's lips in the New Year.
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Skin Cycling 2.0
Dr Whitney Bowe, board-certified dermatologist, research scientist and founder of DWB Beauty, graced the world with the term 'skin cycling'. It involves alternating between exfoliating acids, retinol and a simple moisturiser for skin that is smoother and clearer. In 2023, though, 'advanced skin cycling' will take over.
"'Advanced skin cycling' is one way to personalize your skin cycling routine if your skin can tolerate 'push' products [retinoids and exfoliating acids] more frequently than the 2 times I recommend in my classic skin cycling method," writes Dr Bowe. You might want to drop a 'recovery' night where you use a bland, simple moisturiser and add in another retinol night, for example. It's all about dialing up the active ingredients if your skin is happy to do so.
'Gentle skin cycling' is also going to reign supreme. This involves layering a soothing, nourishing moisturiser on top of your exfoliating serum or retinol, writes Dr Bowe, to "rebalance your skin microbiome and repair your skin barrier based on your skin’s needs and your skin’s goals."
Skin Flooding
We were all kind of icked out when we first heard the term “slugging,” but man, did it take off in spades in 2022. Really, the concept of “slugging” — or putting Vaseline over serums and creams to lock in hydration — isn’t new. It’s skin-care 101. Though that doesn’t mean it doesn’t work.Dieux Skin’s Charlotte Palermino points out that we’re going to see more brands talking about layering skin-care and trapping hydration, also known as 'moisture sandwiching' or 'skin flooding' on TikTok. "Respecting your skin isn’t going anywhere, and thankfully, protecting your barrier (and keeping it healthy) isn’t a trend," says Charlotte.
But how we go about it and the products we're going to use? That’s where the update is. Charlotte says that tried and true ingredients like glycerin (found in lots of serums and moisturisers) will be big in new skin-care formulas. It works brilliantly layered alongside hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide. If your skin is dry, look for glycerin ingredient over something like petrolatum.
Souped-Up Skincare Products
The ever-expansive #shelfie seems like a relic of the past. Next year, we'll see the rise of multi-ingredient products. "Instead of using 5 individual products, we will look for one product that combines those 5 ingredients in one formulation," says Dr Bowe.Palermino agrees: "Having a mausoleum dedicated to products you don’t have enough time (or available skin space) for isn’t as aspirational as it used to be." She points out that not only is it wasteful to have a huge array of products, but excessive layering can lead to irritation, like redness, dryness and sorness.
"Skin-care doesn’t have to be complicated or involve a million products in order to be effective," esthetician Shani Darden adds. "Using efficacious products that are right for your skin type will reveal your best, most glowing skin." Some great products that pack a real punch when it comes to multiple active ingredients include: Allies of Skin Molecular Saviour Probiotics Treatment Mist and DWB Beauty’s Bowe Glowe™ Microbiome Nourishing Cream.
Also try the Olay Regenerist Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Face Moisturizer, which combines peptides (essentially skin-strengthening proteins) with brightening vitamin C, and Dieux Skin’s Deliverance, with both peptides and niacinamide.
The Mushroom Boom
Mushrooms are the latest big push in skin-care. Tremella mushroom in particular has been touted as a natural alternative to popular hydrating ingredient, hyaluronic acid. “With its healing, skin rejuvenating and moisturizing properties, tremella mushroom is a natural humectant [attracts moisture] and has a greater moisture binding ability compared to hyaluronic acid, making it extremely hydrating,” explains Dorian Morris founder and CEO of Undefined Beauty. “To achieve a healthy, balanced skin barrier, hydration is critical — and tremella mushroom delivers.”Products we love which feature tremella include: the Undefined R&R Cleanser and Undefined R&R Day Serum. Also try the Peach & Lily Peptide Pro Moisturizer, Herbivore’s PINK CLOUD Rosewater + Tremella Creamy Jelly Cleanser or Three Ships Beauty Dew Drops Mushroom Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin C Serum.
Beyond The Body Cream
2023 is going to be amazing for those who want to treat the skin on their body just as well as the skin on their face. We’ve moved further than a body lotion or oils, though.Sarah Brown executive director of the VIOLET LAB for VIOLET GREY, predicts 2023 will be the year of the body serum, body masks and the body sculpting tool. "Everything you're doing for your face, from your masks to your serums, your exfoliant to your sculpting? Bring it on for the body," she shared. She loves Costa Brazil’s Massage Tool, Kayo’s Detox Mask To Scrub, and NuFace’s NuBODY® Body Toning Device.
Peach & Lily’s Alicia Yoon agrees: "I love seeing the growing demand for TLC from the neck-down because body care ingredient lists look so much like facial care products now." Peach & Lily’s KP Bump Boss Microderm Body Scrub, uses skin-care heavy ingredients like exfoliating lactic acid and fruit enzymes, as well as redness-reducing centella asiatica (or cica) and hydrating hyaluronic acid.
Devices That Deliver
There’s more beep-boop machines and robots to help you clean, sculpt and treat your face than ever before. In 2023, we'll actually dedicate the time to using them.The traditional clay face mask is still in play, but using a facial tool or a device once a week has turned the traditional mask night on its head. "I feel that at-home devices such as vibration therapy and LED light therapy will continue to become even more popular for helping to achieve your best skin without the need for expensive, invasive treatments," says Darden. Her own Facial Sculpting Wand is a vibration therapy device, which uses acoustic sound waves to boost circulation. She has been using the LED Light Therapy Mask in her facials for years and it is one of her favorite at-home treatments for plumping skin and tackling pigmentation.
When you spend that money on a Dyson hair tool, you're using that thing, right? Same thing with your at-home facial device. Put in a calendar reminder! R29-recommended at-home facial treatment devices include AGE-R’s Derma EMS Shot, FaceGym Face Shot, NuFACE Mini Device, and Dr Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro. For those who don’t want to spend all their holiday money, Plum Beauty’s Sculpting Beauty Bar is a great option.
A De-Stressed Mind Equals Better Skin
We're all stressed out. That's an understatement. But it has an impact on your skin, and in more of a "should I get baby Botox?" kind of way. It goes without saying that our emotional wellbeing is the bridge between our mental, and therefore, physical health, so 2023 will bring a bigger focus onto psychodermatology: the link between mind and skin.Being chronically stressed out will keep your cortisol levels elevated, potentially causing inflammation throughout the body which, can show up on skin in a few different ways: acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and a weakened skin barrier, for example. All the fun things we love. Or not.
Your first port of call is looking after your mental health. When it comes to skin-care, selfmade’s Corrective Experience Comfort Cream and Secure Attachment Comfort Serum+ are packed with hyaluronic acid and Cortinhib G, which is the brand’s hero ingredient that strengthening skin’s protective barrier. LOUM Beauty is another skin-care brand with psychodermatology at the forefront of its ethos.
Ceramides Lead The Tide
"Ceramides are certainly the underdog in skin-care," says Dr Kim Nichols, board-certified dermatologist and founder of NicholsMD of Greenwich, CT. If you don’t know about ceramides, you better come correct right now. "Ceramides are imperative to healthy skin because they are naturally occurring lipids (or oils) present in the skin," explains Dr Nichols."Ceramides support a healthy barrier while securing hydration in the skin," adds Josh Rosenbrook of Josh Rosebrook skin & hair care. While they've been out there for some time, especially in over-the-counter skin-care, brands are combining ceramides with other hydrating ingredients, such as fatty acids, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to lend intense moisturization.
Products we love that are heavy in ceramides include: SkinCeuticals’ Triple Lipid Restore Moisturizer and Josh Rosenbrook Ultra Peptide Cream. Also try the Joanna Vargas Eden Hydrating Pro Moisturizer, and the Undefined R&R Gel-Creme.
Skin-Care + Makeup Hybrids
Skin-care and makeup hybrids aren’t exactly new, but they’re better than ever before. From skin tints full of SPF to makeup designed to be slept in, we’re taking extra steps to protect our skin — and saving lots of time while doing so."There are exciting innovations that allow for truly hybrid products without compromising on makeup payoff or skin-care benefits," explains Yoon. Peach & Lily’s Glass Skin Veil Mist went viral on TikTok this year, for example, because it's a true skin-care product that hydrates and nourishes while delivering a long-lasting, glassy highlight (under or over makeup).
Taylor Worden, celebrity esthetician and founder of Taylor Worden Skin, loves Colorescience Total Protection Color Balm SPF 50 to protect lips and lend a little color to lips, cheeks and eyelids. Also try Perricone MD’s No Makeup Bronzer Broad Spectrum SPF 15 for easy makeup reapplication and Eyeko’s Beach Waterproof Mascara, because yes, even your mascara has SPF in it now.
Skin Neutrality Over Skin Positivity
In June, I wrote about the acne brands who are taking the shame out of having acne, and my greatest hope is that we’re more careful and precise with the language we use surrounding our skin.Next year, though, the way we talk about our skin won't require toxic positivity or kid gloves. In fact, 'skin positivity' is making way for 'skin neutrality'. On TikTok, it has a huge 375.8K views and counting. We're all working hard to try to shed antiquated and unrealistic beauty standards and skin neutrality encourages viewing skin simply as a healthy function of our body — not a topic for debate. Your skin is one big ol’ organ. Practicing skin neutrality will bring us one step closer to loving our skin for what it is, rather than what we hope it could be.
It goes deeper than that, too. Lee hopes the likes of ‘sensitive skin’ might be referred to as ‘resilent skin’, for example. Our skin is built to reject things that are not good for us as a literal defensive mechanism, and it will tell you when it is not happy. “Scabs, hives, and burns are a physical manifestation of the magic of our body’s ability to register threat, sound an alarm and attempt to self-heal,” she shares. “So the next time it is red, reactive and inflamed, it’s yelling, 'listen to me! Take care of me! I’m resilient!’”
I Liked It, So I Refilled It
The likes of Fenty Skin entered the refillable skin-care market while intelligent brands like SpoiledChild, 2250, and Uni tested the waters, too. Who can forget the SKKN roll out from this summer? Experts predict lots more brands will follow suit in 2023.Refillable products are not perfect and we’ve got a long way to go, but at least brands are trying — and we love to see that. Sarah Paiji Yoo of Blueland explains, "While refillable products aren’t necessarily always better for the planet (it depends on the materials used and if the products are then actually being refilled by buyers) it has been great to see the huge growth in interest from businesses and consumers in re-use over single-use."
Personally, I’m refilling my Blueland Body Wash alongside Paiji Yoo because it makes me feel like a scientist creating a concoction. But I’m also refilling Trinny London Reveal Yourself AHA Exfoliant, and the Kate McLeod Daily Stone Body Moisturizer, as well as my forever love, Pixi Glow Tonic.
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