You wouldn’t know it by looking at my immaculate manicure (I’m writing this wearing a fresh set of gels for my birthday this month), but for the vast majority of my childhood, my nails were nothing more than short, picked-apart stubs. As an anxious child who grew into a slightly less anxious adult, biting my nails was a nervous habit for longer than I’d care to admit.
Some might think it gross (I’m convinced this was partially why I was constantly coming down with colds and other mild ailments), but above everything else, I felt embarrassed and ashamed at my nubby, chewed-up fingertips. I tried to kick the habit before — many times — and over and over again, I felt like I had failed. Gloves, stress balls, gum, pepper-flavored clear nail polish — nothing worked. I was jealous of the other girls in school who sported cute, glittery manicures or traded nail polish between classes. But at the end of the day, I felt like I only had myself to blame.
So, Why Do We Bite Our Nails?
“The exact cause of nail biting (also known as onychophagia) is currently unknown, but there are studies that show that nail biting may be more common with certain psychiatric disorders such as anxiety and obsessive-compulsive disorder,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dana Stern, MD (who also founded an eponymous nail care brand), tells Refinery29.
In addition to encouraging the transfer of germs from the nails to the mouth (and vice versa), long-term effects of biting can cause irreversible changes to the nail itself. “Chronic nail biting can result in nail shape change, i.e. the development of a shorter, wider nail,” Dr. Stern explains. “Other consequences are white patches, aka punctate leukonychia, which occurs from trauma to the matrix. This is the area of the nail where the nail grows from.”
Brittle and breakage-prone nails are usually not a byproduct of nail biting, but can be attributed to other factors like genetics and diet. However, my nails were weak to begin with, and years of compulsive biting certainly didn’t help.
Dr. Stern is quick to point out that everyone’s case is different, but this resonated with me deeply. “What works for one person often does not in another. I like to discuss a lot of different tactics, give my patients options, and tailor the approach based on the individual,” she explains. “For example, if a patient’s cuticles are very damaged and are therefore at a higher risk for infection, I will not recommend weekly manicures. If down the road, that patient has made clinical progress and the cuticles [have] healed, we will then consider incorporating salon visits at that point — if the patient is someone who does better when the nails are manicured.” For a budding beauty lover like myself who admired salons from afar, having enough of a nail bed to get a manicure was motivation enough for me to eventually quit the habit.
Besides regular nail appointments (cute nail art and gel extensions have worked wonders to help me stop biting), nail strengtheners with ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids (better known as AHAs, such as lactic and glycolic acid), plant-derived oils from superfoods like apricot and avocado, and vitamin E have also come to the rescue. Having tried almost all of them, I’ve weeded out the must-haves from the waste-of-times. Here are some of the most effective nail strengthening products, from $10.
Dr. Dana Nail Renewal System, $30
When Dr. Stern couldn’t find a comprehensive nail treatment system to recommend to patients, she decided to make her own, which she likens to “a facial for your nails.” The three-step routine (designed for weekly use) begins with a glycolic acid prep pad for chemical exfoliation, followed by a custom-designed buffer to physically remove layers of nail damage. You finish with a gel-oil that acts as a moisturizer, nail strengthener and cuticle oil all in one, and voilà: Healthier, naturally radiant nails that you won’t even want to cover with polish.
OPI Repair Mode Bond Building Nail Serum, $24.99
OPI is known for its iconic lacquers and seasonal drops, but the salon-approved brand is also a one-stop shop for all things nail health, too. This innovative product is like a bond builder for your nails, and is formulated with a patented Ulti-Plex Technology that helps repair and build keratin bonds for stronger, healthier nails. It’s billed as a serum, but has a watery consistency that absorbs right away without any residue. I keep this bottle of nail serum on my nightstand as a nightly reminder to apply it before bed.
Hard As Hoof Nail Strengthening Cream, $10.99 $8.88
We’d say this stuff is slept on, but how much of a sleeper hit can one be with over 71,000 Amazon reviews? This rather unassuming tub of nail cream may not be chic, but is packed with coconut and jojoba oils to intensely nourish dehydrated nails and soften the surrounding skin. Plus, at under $10, it’s among the most affordable nail care products you can buy, and one jar easily lasts months, even with regular use.
Olive & June Cuticle Serum Duo, $30
While it’s not technically a nail care product, I’m significantly less likely to bite my nails when I don’t see a scraggly (i.e. tempting), cracked cuticle begging to be picked. I have these nifty pens in every bag, on my desk, by my bedside…nearly in every room of my home to make sure that when I have the urge to bite, I reach for these instead. The mess-free serum itself contains avocado, apricot, and jojoba oils to offer both instant and long-lasting hydration, no matter where I’m at.
Jinsoon HyperRepair, $22
You know that whole, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”, thing? That’s what Jinsoon’s HyperRepair base coat is for my nails. I usually do my own manicure at home, and this has been my go-to base coat for years now. Not only does it work amazingly well to extend polish wear time, but it also reduces staining, yellowing, and leaves my nails feeling more resilient than pre-polish, thanks to a cocktail of vitamins B5, C, and E, in addition to three forms of AHAs (glycolic, malic, and lactic acid) to improve the tone and texture of the nail surface.
Manucurist Active Shine, $16
If you prefer your nail treatment to look and do good, Manucurist is my personal pick. The French brand’s Active range has various nail strengtheners that double as polish (including a very trendy jelly-effect one), but this champagne shimmer is my favorite. The sheer wash of sparkle is so dainty and delicate, and contains beetroot extracts and AHAs to revive struggle-bus nails.
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